Queer Road Tripping Through The South

A photo of a queer road trip.

Photo by Will Truettner.

By Ainsley Lawrence

Taking a road trip is a great U.S. tradition. After all, this country is home to some incredible and varied landscapes. In some cases, you barely have to leave your home state to experience everything from scenic lakes to bustling cities. The South, in particular, offers some incredible delights to those willing to take to the open road.

Whether you call the South your home or you’re visiting from further afield, this region makes for diverse and enriching experiences. Though, that’s not to say that the process isn’t entirely without its challenges. While some attitudes are gradually changing, queer people can find they’re faced with discrimination in some areas of these largely red states. Nevertheless, this needn’t put you off venturing onto the South’s highways and byways. It can take a little extra consideration, but you can plan an enriching and fun road trip.

Key Preparations

The key to the success of any road trip is good preparation. The last thing you want is for your journey through the South to be derailed by negative experiences. Taking a little time to plan helps you both avoid some of the worst issues and arrange appropriate strategies to navigate challenges.

Perhaps the most important step is to plan your route. We all enjoy a little spontaneity on a trip, but leaving it all to chance can be a recipe for chaos. At the very least, you should identify key destinations you want to hit each day. You can then develop some route options with room for wandering. It’s also vital to look at elements such as gas stations, restaurants, and health facilities. Don’t assume you’ll be able to identify these on your phone if they’re needed—you may lose cell reception or run out of battery. Take analog notes on these elements.

Another important consideration is to make sure you have plans for your pets. Taking animals on a road trip can be fun, but you need to make certain your vacation is suitable for your furry friend. Research in advance whether your intended accommodation providers are dog or cat friendly. Consider where on your road trip route you’d be able to take them out for exercise. It may be important to speak to your veterinarian about whether your pet’s health is up to the journey and what medication they might need.

It’s also worth preparing your support network during your trip. Unfortunately, some areas of the South don’t have an especially queer-friendly reputation. While this doesn’t mean you should avoid these areas entirely, it’s worth preparing in advance. Identify friends and allies in nearby spaces that you can contact for support or advice should you need it.

Towns and Cities

Nevertheless, there is still a significant number of southern towns and cities that you’ll find are generally and genuinely welcoming to LGBTQ+ folks. It is, therefore, worth exploring some of these further and attaching them to your trip itinerary.

Perhaps the most obvious destination in this regard is New Orleans. NOLA has a well-earned reputation for being a vibrant, joyful, and queer-friendly city. This is certainly in part due to its image as a haven for creative people and hosting some of the oldest gay bars in the country. If you’re looking for more than just the flair of Mardis Gras, there are some calm yet enriching experiences. Here, you’ll find everything from exquisite creole and cajun dining experiences to queer bookstores.

Rest assured, though, that big cities like NOLA aren’t your only option. An increasing number of small towns and cities in the South have committed to being safe spaces for LGBTQ+ travelers. Huntington, West Virginia, has passed anti-discrimination ordinances and successful inclusivity campaigns with local businesses. Similarly, Charleston, South Carolina, celebrates its reputation as a queer-friendly haven as much as it does its cobbled historic aesthetic. Both towns have garnered reputations for relaxed attitudes and diverse amenities packaged with traditional southern hospitality.  

Natural Landscapes

A road trip through the South can be more enriching if your itinerary isn’t focused on cityscapes alone. One of the best aspects of this part of the country is the wealth of natural wonders you’re able to experience. The geography of the South encompasses everything from mountain peaks to gorgeous coastlines.

If you’re not especially familiar with the southern landscape, your best bet may be to start at a national park. America’s National Park system includes some iconic and breathtaking views if you’re willing to take a longer drive. The Great Smoky Mountains National Park in Gatlinburg, Tennessee, offers incredible views of the Smoky and Cumberland mountains. If you’re looking for something a little more active, Texas’s Big Bend National Park provides opportunities for river rafting and mountain climbing.

It’s also worth noting that some of the South’s national parks preserve and celebrate LGBTQ+ heritage. The National Military Park in Vicksburg, Mississippi, is a Civil War battle site that Albert Cashier—a soldier assigned female at birth who lived as a man—fought on. Frances Benjamin Johnston was also the first queer woman to photograph Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky, if you’d like to retrace her pioneering steps.  

Essential Amenities

You’re unlikely to be able to—or even want to—spend the entire vacation in your car. While it’d be nice to think that you’d be welcomed in all hotels and restaurants along the way, reality doesn’t always reflect this. As such, part of the challenge here is identifying the queer-friendly examples you can patronize along your route.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA) can be a useful resource in this regard. The organization retains a directory of global accommodation and service providers that have committed to LGBTQ+ inclusive standards. As the listing requires membership, you’re generally likely to see mostly larger chains on this list. This can be fine for ease of use.

However, by digging a little deeper you can also find some serious gems in the South. Wanderoo Lodge in Eureka Springs, Arkansas, is an LGBTQ+-owned outdoor adventure lodge. Quirk Hotel in Richmond, Virginia, is also embraced by the LGBTQ+ community as a welcoming, artistic, and joyful environment.

In terms of food choices, it’s always worth hunting down some of the independent restaurateurs of the South. In Lexington, Kentucky, Third Street Stuff and Coffee and Lexington Diner are both queer-operated establishments with solid reputations for good local food. If you’re traveling through Arkansas, the El Sur Street Food Co. in Little Rock offers Honduran cuisine created by a husband-and-husband team out of their food truck.

Safe Travels!

While there are some challenges involved in queer road-tripping through the South, a successful and enriching vacation is more than achievable. Taking the time to plan thoroughly empowers you to identify the resources you need for a positive experience. Alongside cities like New Orleans, it’s worth considering visiting some of the breathtaking national parks the South has to offer. You’ll also find that there is a growing number of queer-friendly amenities to support your comfort. The South really does have a fascinating history and rich culture to offer—you owe it to yourself to take to the road and drink it in.

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